Backpacking the Teton Crest Trail

Post Topic: Everything You Need to Know about the Teton Crest Trail

Backpacking the Teton Crest Trail was the hardest thing I have ever done in my life. The hardest thing physically, at least.

As Randy and I have spent a lot of time in national parks the last couple of years, we have developed a love for hiking and exploring the national parks on foot.

But, we had yet to try backpacking to experience an overnight or multi-day hike. We stumbled upon the idea of hiking the Teton Crest Trail, a 3-night backpacking hike through Grand Teton National Park. One of my favorite national parks!

Were we a little ambitious to go from never having backpacked to a strenuous high-altitude 4-day backpacking hike? Most definitely. Did we bite off more than we could chew? Possibly.

Fortunately, a couple of friends agreed to take on this challenge with us! Strength in numbers, right?

The Teton Crest Trail is a 25 mile hiking trail that expands almost the entire backside of the Teton Range in Grand Teton National Park. Since the Teton Crest trail head doesn’t start at a parking lot, it must be combined with a few other trails meaning that the total length is closer to 35-38 miles.

Are you a beginner backpacker? You may also like this article:

How to Prepare for Your First Backpacking Trip

Side Note: I was a bit disappointed when I got home and took a look at the photos that were taken on this trip. Due to pushing our bodies to the point of total exhaustion each day, I didn’t have much energy left to devote to photography. I still hope that the information shared in this post is to your benefit.

Why You Should or Shouldn’t Hike the Teton Crest Trail

Completing the Teton Crest Trail was such an accomplishment! Although very strenuous, this trail was so worth it!

This hike spans the entire length of the Teton Range and provides some of the most epic mountain views. The up-close views we experienced of the Teton Range were something spectacular and unforgettable.

If you’re up for a physical challenge accompanied by grand mountain views, then the Teton Crest Trail is for you!

If this is your first time backpacking, pick something not quite as ambitious or do a modified version of this hike. You’ll enjoy it more that way.

The Not-So-Fun Side of the Teton Crest Trail & What No One Tells You

First off, this trail is very physically demanding. A few factors that contributed to the difficulty were:

• Elevation: Almost the entire hike is between 8,000 and 10,000 feet in elevation with a few portions that reach above 10,000 feet. The highest point is Paintbrush Divide that reaches 10,700 feet. If you’re like us and from sea-level, plan to get to Wyoming a day or two ahead of time to acclimate. Don’t be like us and arrive only 10 hours before hitting the trail.
• Ups-and-Downs: This was the biggest surprise for us. Nothing that any of us read online discussed the significant elevation gain that we experienced EACH day. Looking at the map, the net elevation change each day was nothing huge. BUT, what none of us were aware of was the significant descent each morning followed by a brutal climb each afternoon. Don’t be fooled, you will be climbing at least 1000-1500 feet each day.
• Pack Weight & Bear Canisters: Bear canisters are required by the NPS to carry any and all food/scented items. Don’t underestimate the weight of these bear canisters and the weight of four days worth of food. Fortunately, water is plentiful on the trail and you will not have to carry much water at a time.
• Mileage Each Day: We were averaging about 10 miles on the first three days (only 7+ on the last day). If you’re up for it, add an extra day and shorten your daily mile average.

Planning Your Teton Crest Hike

What to Pack for the Teton Crest Trail

For a comprehensive list of everything we packed for the Teton Crest Trail, check out this article on preparing for a backpacking trip.

Map of Teton Crest Trail

Below is a map provided by Grand Teton National Park with campsites, mileage, and elevation high points on the Teton Crest Trail. I have also highlighted our route.

The Teton Crest Trail can be accessed by several different trails. Meaning, that you can select a route that works best for the amount of time that you have or your skill level. The trail technically starts at Teton Pass and can be accessed off of WY 22 and runs all the way to String Lake.

Other optional trail heads are Rendezvous Mountain, Granite Canyon, Death Canyon, or Cascade Canyon.

You will find our route highlighted in blue. This is the most popular route for completing the Teton Crest Trail. We hiked the trail from South to North, which is the best way to go to minimize elevation gain.

Purchase a topographical trail map of Grand Teton National Park here.

Pre-Arrange a Taxi Ride

Since the Teton Crest Trail is a one-way route, you’ll have to either bring two cars or prearrange a shuttle or taxi service.

We used A1 Taxi & Tours based out of Jackson, WY and surrounding areas. After parking the car at String Lake where we would end the hike, we took a taxi to Teton Village to our starting location.

I highly recommend organizing shuttle or taxi service before you start hiking rather than after your hike. After the hike you’ll be ready to hop in the car and head to a hot meal & shower rather than sit and wait for a ride.

Hitchhiking is another, but less reliable, option to get from one trail head to another.

Take the Gondola or Aerial Tram

If possible, I HIGHLY recommend starting your hike by taking the Teton Village Aerial Tram. The air-tram will drop you off at 10,450 feet saving you from miles and miles of a brutal uphill ascent. You can book tickets for the Aerial Tram here.

Unfortunately, we visited in 2020. You know, the year when everything falls apart and nothing goes as planned. Well, sticking with that theme, the Aerial Tram was also under repair and out of commission during our visit. Yikes.

So, instead, we booked tickets for the Teton Village Gondola which ends at about 9,000 feet. From there, we took the Cirque Trail, a 1.7 mile trail that climbs from the gondola to the top of the Aerial Tram.

Book Your Campsite Permits Ahead of Time

Campsite permits are required in Grand Teton National Park and can book up fast. You can book permits here.

Our back country campsites were:

• First Night: Death Canyon Shelf
• Second Night: South Fork Cascade
• Third Night: Upper Paintbrush

If you aren’t able to secure permits for each night, don’t fret yet. Back country camping is allowed on national forest land without a permit. This trail crosses into the Jedidiah Smith Wilderness in two sections on the trail: near Fox Creek Pass and Alaska Basin. Both of these two areas have a few areas that are suitable for camping.

Reliable Water Sources

There are ample water sources along the trail including several lakes and rivers and many streams. The water we drank on the trail was some of the best tasting water I have ever had. Bring a water filter and you won’t have to carry water for long.

While water is plentiful on the Teton Crest Trail, there are a few water sources that are sure to be there. They are Marion Lake, a couple small streams on Death Canyon Shelf, Teton Creek in Alaska Basin, Sunset Lake, springs and streams in Cascade Canyon, Lake Solitude & Holly Lake.

Camping, Hiking & Eating in Bear Country

Bears are present in Grand Teton National Park. Keep in mind that this is their home, not yours and be prepared in case you may encounter a bear during your visit. Knowing what to do ahead of time could save your life.

We saw one bear at Lake Solitude taking a bath. So cool! But we were also informed that other hikers near us saw a bear on the trail right by us. Not to mention, that I’m about 99% sure that we heard one stomping around outside our tent on our last night.

Fortunately, we were prepared and knew exactly what to do when we saw one.

Here are a few bear safety tips for backpacking in bear country:

• Carry bear spray! This is a must. Bear spray isn’t permitted on planes. Plan to purchase or rent it once you arrive in Wyoming. You can find bear spray at most grocery or sporting goods stores.
• Make lots of human noises on the trails. Talk loud, sing, shout, or the occasional “Hey Bear!” will do. Bears are able to hear you long before you’re aware of them. Be noisy so you don’t accidentally sneak up on one. This is your first line of defense against a bear encounter.
• Bears have the right-of-way. If you spot a bear on the trail, stay back and let it pass. Make lots of human noises.
• “If it’s black, fight back. If it’s brown, lie down.” Bear encounters rarely result in injury, but it’s important to know what to do if one charges you. Black bears can be fought off. So fight back vigorously. If it’s a brown bear or grizzly, your best chance is to lie down on your stomach, cover your neck with your arms, and spread your legs so the bear can’t turn you over.
• Whatever you do, DON’T RUN. Everything bears eat try to run away. If you run, you will also look like prey. Although it may be your first instinct, don’t do it. Bears can run up to 35 mph and you don’t stand a chance against that.
• Bear canisters are a MUST. These are required by the NPS and it is imperative that you keep all food items and scented toiletries in the bear canister. Store the bear canister about 100 yards away from your tent while you sleep. This will prevent bears from being attracted to your tent.
• Cook & eat all food at least 100 yards away from your tent. Again, keep food smells away from your sleeping area and cook away from your tent.

Four Days on the Teton Crest Trail

Day One

As I mentioned earlier, day one started out rough with a last minute 1,500 foot climb to the start of our trailhead. We hopped on the gondola about 11 am after obtaining our permits and then climbed the 1.7 miles of the Cirque Trail to the top of Rendezvous Mountain (10,450 feet).

From there, we hopped on the Rendezvous Mountain Trail for almost 4.0 miles before meeting up with the official Teton Crest Trail. The trails in this area are poorly marked so make sure that you bring a map to double-check your route.

Nearly 6.5 miles past the Aerial Tram, we came to Marion Lake. Marion Lake is a great place to fill up on water because we didn’t see too much water after the lake until we passed Death Canyon Shelf. This would also be a fantastic camping spot if you can nail reservations here. I would have loved to spend a couple of days here, it was so beautiful.

Next, we headed uphill again and then across a 2-mile portion of the Jedidiah Smith Wilderness. Camping here doesn’t require a permit and we saw a few decent campsites near Fox Creek Pass.

After Fox Creek Pass, it’s probably only another 0.5 miles until the camping area of Death Canyon Shelf begins.

We spent the first night on the southern most point of Death Canyon Shelf. While the views were outstanding, the shelf provided very little protection from the howling wind most of the night. Even exhaustion wasn’t enough to drown out the loud flapping noises of our tent.

Day One Mileage: 10.6 miles

Day Two

The second day might have been my favorite day of the hike. Here’s when the views start to really impress as you approach Grand Teton. Near the end of the day, expect to get up close and personal with Grand Teton.

Starting off day two, it was a few miles across Death Canyon Shelf and then a descent into the Alaska Basin. Here we found a wonderful shady spot and bustling spring to enjoy lunch.

After hiking a few miles through Alaska Basin, the trail began to climb in elevation until reaching Sunset Lake (another great camping spot).

Make sure you take a minute to enjoy Sunset Lake because next it’s another 1000 foot climb up to Hurricane Pass.

Hurricane Pass was definitely the best view of Grand Teton the entire hike and possible my favorite part of the entire trip. As you stand on Hurricane Pass you feel as if you’re looking eye-to-eye with Grand Teton. Although, not technically, as Grand Teton still sits 3,000 feet above you. But still. Probably the most impressive view I’ve ever experienced.

After Hurricane Pass, it was an easy descent into Cascade Canyon for our second night in the South Fork Cascade campground.

Day Two Mileage: 9.1 miles

Day Three

The third day on the trail was definitely the hardest and most challenging day of hiking I’ve ever experienced. My limits were definitely pushed.

Day three started off as a breeze with a delightful descent through Cascade Canyon with gorgeous views of the Tetons.

But our descent abruptly ended after 4 miles as we turned onto the Lake Solitude Trail and started heading up, again. I have to be honest and say that the 2-3 miles before Lake Solitude were dry, hot, not shaded and not very enjoyable, either.

Lake Solitude, on the other hand, was a much needed respite! We spent an extended lunch break here. Filling up on fresh water, soaking swollen feet, and making new friends with other hikers; it was a breath of fresh air and probably my favorite moment on the Teton Crest Trail.

Unfortunately, smiles were short lived as we then had to ascend another 1,700 feet from Lake Solitude to Paintbrush Divide and then traverse down a steep rock scree mess on the other side. Oh, and there was a steep snow field to cross as well.

The final night we camped at Upper Paintbrush and could see Jenny Lake from our campsite!

Day Three Mileage: 9.8 miles

Day Four

Last day on the trail! Day four was mostly down and out. Waking up early in Upper Paintbrush Divide, we packed up and hit the trail shortly after the sun came up and then booked it.

After over 7 miles of all downhill, we finally reached the String Lake Trailhead. Even the views down here by the parking lot were spectacular!

Day Four Mileage: 7.4 miles

After Trail Thoughts

The Teton Crest Trail was my first backpacking experience. First time sleeping in the backcountry, first time cooking in the backcountry, first time carrying all my food & supplies on my back for four days. You get the idea.

I can honestly say that this was the HARDEST thing I’ve ever done in my life. Would I do it again? Most definitely. Can’t wait!

If you have any trail recommendations for this novice backpacker, leave them in the comments below! I’d love to find other must-do backpacking hikes.

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